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View of the beach from the cliff; and view of the cliff from the beach at Varkala |
It had been not very long since I had
read Ken Follett’s novel ‘Eye of the Needle’ that I happened to visit the sleepy
town of Varkala in Kerala. The story of this novel revolves around
the activities of a Nazi spy during World War II, involved in espionage within
Britain. A major part of the story happens on a rocky island near Scottish
shore. Imagine a huge mass of rock standing vigilant in vast expanse of sea;
and saline waves roaring against its bottom! This image had been imprinted
somewhere deep in my mind by the time I finished reading the novel. And I had
no idea that the image was about to be realized soon at Varkala.
Varkala- a tiny town at the southern end of Kerala! At first glance, it appears to be
a sleepy hamlet in one remote corner of a vast country, and moving with a speed
of its own. A quiet railway station with almost non-existent hustle & bustle
and surrounded by lush green trees; a good number of taxis and auto rickshaws
outside the station to take you to the beach; no bus stand, and people boarding a bus from the road itself; and ordinary eating outlets along the
road, many of those running in kiosks.
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The beach shimmers in golden glow at dusk. It is an inviting view nonetheless |
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There are many souvenir shops lining the road on hilltop where they sell local stuff |
This image of Varkala does not
change much as you go down the winding road towards the beach. The road runs
for almost five kms. till it hits the cliff. And the moment you fill your
eyes with the scene below you from the top of the hill, you see a different
world altogether. That scene is still unforgettable to me. By the time I
reached there, the Sun had started its final descent in the Occident, and the
white sandy beach below me was shining in the evening light. The whole setting
of the rocky island and the sea in Ken Follett’s novel was suddenly alive
before me. The only difference was, whereas there was only one house on that island
and it had only a couple of souls living there, here, in Varkala, were many resorts, restaurants and souvenir shops lining the single road on the
hilltop and there was a huge crowd enjoying on the beach below.
A better and cheaper option
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Varkala is far better option as compared to Goa and Mumbai. It is cheaper too |
If you have had enough of the dirty
and littered beaches of popular Indian tourist destinations like Goa, Mumbai or
Chennai, then welcome to Varkala! The sand here is almost white in colour and shore
edge is velvety. And as the sunrays deflected by the clean glassy beach soothe
your retina, it feels like a paradise glowing in the golden light. Varkala
beach is a strong contender to beaches of Phuket and Penang in beauty. That is
why perhaps, you will find so many foreign tourists here- much more than what
you will expect at more popular beach of Kovalam in Thiruvananthapuram situated
only 50 kilometers away.
The seaside resort town of Varkala
is settled on a hillock. This hillock is part of a low mountain range called
Western Ghats that runs along the western sea coast of India. As compared to
other places, these Ghats almost kiss the seashore in Varkala. The hillock in
Varkala has two cliffs namely the North Cliff and the South Cliff. And at the
bottom of these sharply sloped cliffs lies the gleaming sandy beach.
One feels at home
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There are flea markets too in the small alleys that run off the main road on the cliff |
If it is mentally refreshing to
spend some time on the beach and get into a playful mood in the Arabian Sea, it
is equally relaxing to have an overnight stay in one of the numerous home-stays
there. Though there are many five-star resort hotels in Varkala, one can easily
find budget accommodation, thus making it an ideal destination for backpackers
too. Although, the actual identity of Varkala lies in its home-stays, which
offer true backpacking experience. The most of foreign tourists prefer to get
mixed up in the local life rather than locking themselves up in a hotel room. Living
like a guest with local families, knowing about the culture of Kerala, and savouring
pure and delicious home-made local food… home-stay experience is really different
and enriching.
My destination too was one of those
home-stays. After being tired from travelling almost for the whole day, I stepped
into the courtyard surrounded by coconut trees… and what! All my tiredness
vanished then and there into thin air. On one side a swing; and on the other some
young guests sitting on a mat and laughing heartily! A well for fetching drinking
water from; and a candle light dinner with Keralite dishes while sitting on a
cot! It felt as if all the guests staying there were known to each other since
long and a part of an extended family.
Taste and Health come together here
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Many small restaurants are there on the cliff. Though there are bigger ones too |
Having local food at a home-stay
has a charm of its own, though one has an option of having meal at one of the
restaurants on the cliff. If one is in town, then there also are numerous food
outlets serving all kind of food. The restaurants at the cliff can offer you mesmerizing
ambience- music playing amidst dim lights, a roaring sea just beneath you, and
fresh seafood... What else one wants! Bet it, you won’t forget this dinner. And
if you wish, you can buy raw seafood here and get it cooked to your own taste
and choice. Varkala is indeed a paradise for food lovers. Health conscious
people also have something to rejoice in Varkala. They can have Ayurvedic
massage and spa at very reasonable rates and there are several such centers
where you can say goodbye to your physical and mental fatigue.
Janardhana Temple and Sivagiri Monastery
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The Janardhana Temple is 2000 years yold and is dedicated to Lord Vishnu |
If Varkala is one of the best
destinations for those who love comfort and sophistication at an affordable
price, it is no less important from religious point of view. Here you can visit
Janardhana Temple that is 2000 years old. It is not very far from Papanasham beach
which literally means ‘destroyer of all sins’. This place is religiously so
important for local people that they call it ‘Kashi of the South’. In addition,
Sivagiri Math in Varkala is also a centre of religious activities. This was founded
by great saint and philanthropist Narayana Guru. A festival is celebrated
at Sivagiri from December 30th to January 1st every year.
Some tips before you go there
- Situated about 50 kms from Thiruvananthapuram and 25
kms from Kollam, Varkala is easily approachable by bus and train. Train
travel is far more convenient. The name of the railway station is Varkala
Sivagiri.
- Not every train originating or passing through
Kollam or Thiruvananthapuram stops at Varkala Sivagiri station. Check out
before you board a train.
- Varkala beach and the cliff above have many eating and
drinking outlets where one can have a memorable dinner while enjoying cool
and misty sea breeze.
- I had booked my home-stay on internet and it was a bit
costly as compared to others. But there are many home-stays to choose from
and not each of them is offered on internet. One can get a cheaper option even
after getting to Varkala.
- Before you choose a home-stay, do inquire about the
facilities they provide there. Don’t forget to ask whether breakfast is
included in your room tariff or not. Sometimes it is there but they will
offer it only if you ask about it.
- If you intend to spend much time in Varkala, rooms
are available on rental basis.
Text and Photos by Ajay Garg